Dermatologists Explain Exfoliation: AHAs, BHAs & Scrubs for Glowing Skin
- Quiet Alchemy
- Oct 15, 2025
- 4 min read
Updated: Jan 28
Why Exfoliation Is the Step Most Skincare Routines Get Wrong
If your skincare products feel like they’re sitting on your skin and not doing anything, the issue is usually dead skin buildup.
When dead cells accumulate, they block absorption, dull the complexion, and clog pores.
Proper exfoliation helps remove this buildup, improves skin texture, and allows active ingredients to work effectively.
The key is choosing the right exfoliation method for your skin type and using it at the correct frequency.
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What Is Exfoliation in Skincare?
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin.
This helps:
Improve rough and uneven texture
Reduce blackheads and clogged pores
Brighten dull-looking skin
Support healthy skin cell turnover
Although skin naturally sheds dead cells, this process slows due to age, pollution, dehydration, acne, and sun damage.
This is why manual or chemical exfoliation becomes necessary.
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Chemical Exfoliation vs Physical Exfoliation
There is no single exfoliation method that works for everyone.
Chemical exfoliation uses acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells without friction.
Physical exfoliation relies on gentle particles to manually lift dead skin through massage.
For most people, chemical exfoliation is safer and more consistent, while physical exfoliation should be used sparingly and gently.
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AHAs Explained: Best Exfoliant for Dry, Dull & Uneven Skin
AHAs, or Alpha Hydroxy Acids, are water-soluble acids that work on the skin’s surface.
Common AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid.
AHAs are especially effective for improving dullness, uneven texture, mild pigmentation, and early signs of aging.
Lactic acid works best for dry skin, mandelic acid suits sensitive skin, and glycolic acid targets rough texture.
For beginners, AHAs should be used once or twice a week at night to avoid irritation.
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BHAs Explained: Best Exfoliant for Oily & Acne-Prone Skin
BHAs are oil-soluble exfoliating acids that penetrate deep into pores.
The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid.
BHA exfoliation helps dissolve excess oil, unclog pores, reduce blackheads, and control breakouts.
This makes BHAs ideal for oily skin, acne-prone skin, and blackhead-prone areas.
If you’re new to BHA exfoliation, start with once a week and increase to twice weekly only if your skin tolerates it well.
PHAs and Enzyme Exfoliants for Sensitive Skin
If AHAs or BHAs feel too strong, PHAs and enzyme exfoliants are safer alternatives.
PHAs exfoliate more slowly due to their larger molecular size, which reduces irritation while providing hydration.
Enzyme exfoliants derived from papaya or pineapple gently break down dead skin without acids.
These exfoliants work best for sensitive, rosacea-prone, or barrier-damaged skin and should generally be used once a week.
Physical Scrubs: How to Use Them Without Damaging Skin
Physical exfoliation isn’t inherently harmful, but harsh scrubbing is.
Gentle scrubs made with fine rice powder, oatmeal, or jojoba beads can safely remove dead skin.
Coarse scrubs containing walnut shells or large jagged particles should be avoided, as they can cause micro-tears and inflammation.
Physical scrubs should be used no more than once a week and never on inflamed or acne-affected skin.
How to Exfoliate Properly (Step-by-Step Routine)
Exfoliation should always be done at night.
Start by cleansing your face with a gentle, non-stripping cleanser.
Apply your chosen exfoliant evenly and allow it to work without rubbing or massaging.
Wait around 10 to 15 minutes before applying a soothing, barrier-repair moisturizer.
Avoid combining exfoliation with strong actives like retinol or vitamin C on the same night.
The next morning, applying sunscreen is essential, as exfoliated skin becomes more sensitive to UV damage.
How Often Should You Exfoliate Based on Skin Type
Sensitive skin: PHAs or enzyme exfoliants once per week.
Dry skin: Lactic acid exfoliation once weekly.
Oily or acne-prone skin: BHAs once or twice a week, depending on sensitivity.
Combination and normal skin: AHAs or AHA-BHA blends one to two times weekly.
More exfoliation does not mean better results.
Over-exfoliation often leads to breakouts, redness, and barrier damage.
Common Exfoliation Mistakes That Damage Skin
Many skin issues come from improper exfoliation habits.
Exfoliating daily, layering multiple exfoliating acids together, skipping sunscreen, or scrubbing irritated skin can all compromise the skin barrier.
If your skin stings, peels excessively, or feels tight, it’s a sign to reduce frequency or stop exfoliating altogether.
Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation: Final Take
Chemical exfoliation offers controlled, even exfoliation and long-term results when used correctly.
Physical exfoliation can be useful occasionally but should never replace chemical exfoliation in a consistent routine.
For most skin types, chemical exfoliants are the more effective and safer choice.
Final Thoughts
Exfoliation is not a shortcut to perfect skin.
It’s a tool that works only when used strategically.
Choosing the correct exfoliant, limiting frequency, and prioritizing skin barrier health is what leads to long-term results.
Healthy skin is built slowly. Exfoliation simply helps clear the way.
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